Pastries & Mermaids in Copenhagen 🇩🇰

Returning to Copenhagen on the train from our trip across the Øresund, we dropped our bags off at the Cabinn City Hotel and eagerly headed out to explore this historic capital city.

Only staying for a couple of nights, it would just be enough time to get a taster of the place, so we had to prioritise what we wanted to see and eat and with city map in hand, we set off.

To get our bearings, we made our way to the City Hall Square or Rådhuspladsen a huge public square that was full of people making the most of the sunny weather, little craft stalls and food huts created a welcoming atmosphere. We did a quick loop of the square, passing the city hall building, the dragon fountain, and the Hans Christian Andersen statue, planning (but failing) to return later that weekend.

High on my list of things to see was the Little Mermaid statue at Langelinie Pier. Erected in 1913 the statue commemorates the fact that the Hans Christian Andersen story was not only written but also published here in Copenhagen in 1837 and is now a top tourist attraction. Made even more special for me as I reading it and more of Andersens fairy tales during my stay, as I often like to read a famous book or two from places I am travelling in.

Disclaimer – I look back now and realise just how much we missed on our whistle stop tour, but it was more about 2 friends reconnecting and having a quick city break, than a full on sightseeing weekend, but reviewing the photos 5 years later, I know I need to return to see more.

At the time, I had a colleague who had family living in Copenhagen, so before the trip she had given me a list of places to eat and drink, so in need of a good pastry, we made our way to one of the branches of The Coffee Collective.

A danish pastry and cup of mocha, Copenhagen, Denmark
Mocha and a Danish, Coffee Collective, Copenhagen

With a chain of shops all over Copenhagen, including one housed in an old telephone booth, the collective have won numerous awards including gold in the world barista championships and with the coffee freshly roasted on site, you would expect it to deliver, and it did. If I had brought a bigger travel bag, I would have been tempted to taken a jar back home, but instead we ordered our pastries and sat back to soak up the culture.

It was only a short walk from the coffee shop to Assistens Cemetery but probably not far enough to burn off the pastries unfortunately. So we explored the tree lined paths across the park, making time to pet any local dog I could find, before locating the graveyard. Famous for being the final resting place of many notable Danes, including Hans Christian Andersen, disappointingly though his grave had been defaced with graffiti.

There are three rectangular lakes in the city, so with the sun still shining and our feet holding up, we followed the locals and went for a afternoon stroll around the waters edge, crossing bridges, admiring the incredible buildings along the shoreline and dodging cyclists of which there were plenty.

That evening we lost ourselves in the magical wonder of one of the most visited amusement parks in the world, Tivoli Gardens. Built in the 1800’s parts of the park, (deceptively right in the heart of the city centre), have a vintage feel, the fountains, the flowers, the food stalls, the gardens. But don’t be fooled, there are some serious rides here too, like the Demon and the Golden Tower that shoots you 63 meters high up into the sky, before dropping you back down again.

Visiting at night time, we got to experience the more sedate parts of the park, especially with the gardens all light up, it was serene and quiet, until the loud roar of a rollercoaster nearby rudely brought you back to reality. We then spent far too much time deciding which stall to eat dinner and which stall to eat dessert, it was a tough job but we finally went for the family run Vaffelbageriet for a late night treat of sugary pastries and hot chocolate. Then to work off the sugar high, we explored the shopping area, from the Lego store, to the souvenir shops and trying not to fall in love with absolutely everything on display in the Danish lifestyle stores, I absolutely love all things Scandi when it comes to homewares and design and it felt like we were at ground zero. I made a mental note to increase the shopping budget for my return trip.

We started our 2nd morning as we meant to go on with more pastries, how could we not, being in the land of the multilayered, sweet breads known at least to outsiders as ‘the Danish’. We headed to another recommended bakery for our breakfast, the delicious and organic Emmerys.

We then spent an hour indulging our Nordic Noir obsession at the time, by visiting some of the sites featured in both The Killing and The Bridge, including the Police Headquarters only a short walk from our hotel. Many tour guides now offer bespoke Nordic Noir walking tours if you really want to get deep into the genre, but again we were short on time and our budget was tight. We had achieved our goal of travelling across ‘the bridge’, so a few photos of recognisable buildings and streets would have to do for this trip.

One place I did want to make time for was the unique, alternative community known as Freetown Christiania. Originally a former military barracks, when they moved out in 1971 local homeless moved into the vacant buildings and the families from the nearby neighbourhood transformed some of the land into a children’s play area. Within a few weeks, the entire space had been proclaimed a free town, appealing to people across many communities, including ‘hippies’, anarchists, artists and all people looking for a more communal and collective way of living.

50 years on, this place has now become one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city. You can take guided tours, or a take a self guided walk, as we did, exploring the amazing and colourful self built dwellings, workspaces, craft shops, art galleries, concert halls, nightclubs and cafes. We cautiously walked along Pusher Street, the notorious area where cannabis is bought and sold, obeying the rules to not photograph a single thing, took a lovely sunlit nature walk around the lake, admired local art on display pretty much everywhere and finished up with lunch in a cafe.

It was late afternoon by the time we were leaving, passing by the spiral topped Church of Our Saviour, adding yet another thing I need to visit when I can make a return trip.

With a few gifts left to buy, we explored the fascinating and colourful area of Nørrebro which had piqued our interest the previous day when we visited the cemetery. As well as little independent stores and vintage shops, coffee houses and restaurants, there was some incredible street art too, there was a real vibrant feel to the place, too much to explore in the short time we had.

Our final stop had to be the world famous flagship Lego Store, not to buy anything particularly, but to marvel at the largest toy company in the world. Inside as well as boxes and boxes of every kind of lego block you could image, there were large scale replicas of pirates and cycling Danes, as well as reconstructions of local landmarks of the city all built from those little plastic infamous blocks, it felt like the perfect place to finish our sightseeing for the weekend.

Settling down for our final meal and a local beer, I tried to take in all that we had squeezed into our long weekend, covering two different cities, across two different countries. Short and sweet, increasing my fascination and appreciation for all things Scandi, while quietly hoping I would be lucky enough to return someday to explore some more.

COFFEE AND CAKE – the Coffee Collective we visited was the one on Jægersborggade, only a short walk from Assistens Cemetery. We loved Emmerys too, with a number of locations both in Copenhagen and Århus, they serve both breakfast and lunch, with an amazing selection of cakes and pastries.

EATS – If you are visiting Christiania, definitely plan to stay for lunch, there were some quirky indie places to eat and drink, we ate our lunch outside at Grønsagen and had their buffet lunch. We also combined our trip to Tivoli with our evening meal to save time, the Tivoli Food Hall is slightly separate to the actual gardens, so you can enter here for free to eat and drink, paying an entrance fee only if you then want to venture into the amusement park itself. Next time though I am saving up to try and get a spot at the world famous Noma.

TOP TIP – Plan for at least 3 nights, which we didn’t, ha! Writing up my travel journals on this blog is just a personal place for me to reflect on all my journeys to date, but this particular post has made me realise there was so much more I have to see, so hopefully there will be a Copenhagen part 2. Copenhagen is an expensive city though and although there are lots of cheap flight options, accommodation prices are often anything but. If you go when the weather is likely to be warm, there are loads of free things to do outside, all the parks, lakes, markets and if you are staying for a few days, and want to cram a lot in, its probably best to invest in a Copenhagen Card.

ALWAYS BE POLITE – Tak – ‘Thank you’, Hej – ‘Hello’, you can also use Hej Hej for ‘Goodbye’

A day spent in Rimini 🇮🇹

I had heard of Rimini, with it’s long beaches, glamorous restaurants, cocktail bars and nightclubs with names such as Hobo’s and Coconut’s and it has to be said, it didn’t appeal much. But we had to pass through on our way too and from San Marino, and with a direct bus from Rimini Station straight through to Bologna Airport available and a full day at our disposal before the flight home, we stored our bags at the train station and headed off to explore.

Handy for us, there was a tourist office inside the main station, so we grabbed a tourist map, planned a walking route around all the main historic sites and set off.

My previously held impressions of Rimini soon started to change as we approached the first stop on our hastily devised itinerary and arrived at the Malatesta Temple. Also known as the unfinished Cathedral, it was being built for the ruler of the time Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta but as his popularity began to wane, he started losing a lot of his conquered territory and died before it was fully completed.

Originally it was a gothic church dedicated to St Francis in the 13th century, but by the mid 1400’s it started to be remodelled into a Renaissance mausoleum for Sigismondo’s mistress. I loved the geometric patterns over the front door, which when opened revealed a big central nave lined with huge arches, and an alter complete with a gothic crucifix. There are seven chapels along the right side, all decorated with detailed frescos and statues, although not everyone was a fan of the interior back then, with some of Sigismondo’s enemies proclaiming that the church was ‘full of pagan gods and profane things‘.

Within minutes of leaving the temple we found ourselves right in the heart of the action in the main square, known as Piazza Tre Martiri. This grand square has a fascinating history, the name ‘three martyrs’ is in memory of three civilians who were hung by the Nazi’s during the II World War. The square has been in use though since the Middle Ages, even once holding court for Julius Caesar as he gave a speech, which is commemorated by a bronze statue erected in honour of this famous Roman dictator.

Continuing to explore the square, there is a beautiful but small octagonal temple dedicated to St Anthony of Padua situated in front of the colourful Paolotti Church that you really must go inside to see, the decor inside is pretty unusual.

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The other big draw in the piazza is the Torre dell’Orologio, or historical clock tower, look closely, its design incorporates signs of the zodiac, the months of the year as well as phases of the moon.

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We had a good explore around pretty much every inch of the square, including investigating the many cafes and shops situated beneath the porticos, noting potential places to return to eat lunch later.

We continued on to the furthest point west on the tourist map, to see the ancient gate in the old walls of the city, known as the Arch of Augustus. Built in 27BC, so when I say ancient, I really mean ancient! It is such an important symbol of the city, it’s featured on the coat of arms and is one of the oldest Roman gates that still stands today. It’s a huge striking monument with lots of interesting details, including references to Neptune, Apollo and Jupiter, but it’s a solitary figure, stood alone, surrounded by this modern city on all sides, a proud reminder of Rimini’s past.

Wandering back into the heart of the city, we explored little alleyways, window shopped, spotted a cute mini postal van, perfect for manoeuvring the tiny side streets, then paused for lunch, reinvigorating ourselves with a strong coffee, in the way only the Italians can deliver.

After lunch we headed east, towards the Marecchia River, to another important landmark of Rimini, but not before we poked our heads inside the The Church of Santa Maria in CorteA 14th century church, quite plain from the outside, but inside its full of large gilded columns, beautiful fresco’s and ornate statues, we were glad we peeped inside.

The River Marecchia starts over in Tuscany, flowing its way north east, until it arrives at Rimini and enters the Adriatic Sea, the famous arched pedestrian bridge that crosses the river in the heart of Rimini has been an indispensable part of the landscape for over 2000 years. The Bridge of Tiberius is a stone bridge that has survived even World War II and is an important symbol showcasing the incredible engineering skills of the Romans, and like the Arch of Augustus, it’s featured on the Rimini coat of arms.

As we followed the river to its mouth out into the Adriatic, a large camera stopped us in our tracks, on closer inspection, we found we had accidentally arrived at  Federico Fellini Park. One of Italy’s most famous sons, he was born in Rimini in 1920 and became one of the worlds most famous film directors, winning four best language Oscars.  As well as the camera statue dedicated to the film maker, there is the curious fountain of the four sea horses, a popular meeting point on the way to the beach.

From the park, it was only short walk east to the beach, it was pretty quiet and we had most of it to ourselves, but it was February, out of season and I’m sure on a hot summers day it would have been a different story. But as I’m not a fan of a busy seafront, it was perfect, we continued down the promenade, taking care not to get too wet or sandy before our flight and made it to the waters edge. It was either too misty or probably just too far in distance to see across the sea to Croatia, where a year earlier we had dipped our toes in the same water over in Dubrovnik, there is something about gazing out across an ocean that just ignites that urge to travel even more isn’t there?

Already making plans to return to both Italy and Croatia, full of fresh travel ideas, we headed back through the Arch of Augustus to an ice cream parlour that had caught our attention earlier in the day, due to the wide selection of diary free options. It did not disappoint, and we gleefully finished our Italian adventure devouring our gelato, perfetto!

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EATS – Due to our short time in Rimini, we only managed one main meal, and that was at Caffe La Dolce Vita a decent inexpensive cafe selling pizza and pasta a short walk from Piazza Tre Martiri. There were lots of seaside restaurants, many closed during our visit as it was out of season, but around the main square there was still a lot of choice and with its coastal location, a lot of the restaurants specialising in Seafood, so if that’s your thing, you’re in for a treat.

COFFEE AND CAKE – Again we only had time for one sweet treat and coffee, but we chose wisely and that was at Cuor di Cioccolato.

TOP TIP – You can store luggage at Rimini train station for €5 a day. We caught the Rimini to Bologna Airport shuttle bus for €20 each, taking 90 minutes. This route doesn’t appear to be running at the moment, but that could be a Covid thing. There are other options if you are flying in via Bologna, such as a train back to Bologna city centre. Rimini also has its own airport with transport options available to the city.

ALWAYS BE POLITE – Prego – ‘You’re Welcome‘  Mi Scusi – Excuse Me


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Quick stop in Bologna 🇮🇹

The plan was to get to San Marino, the 5th smallest country in the world, and landlocked inside Italy. The closest Italian city is Rimini, but with no direct flights from where we live, mum and I decided to fly to Bologna instead, a further 68 miles up the coast.

Neither myself or mum had been to the World Heritage city of Bologna before, so we decided to stay for 1 night, before travelling south onward to San Marino.

We landed early morning, giving ourselves one and a bit days to explore the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region, known as the Fat, Red, and the Learn’d City, because of it’s rich food, red roof tiles and is home to the oldest university in the western world.

After dumping our bags at our hotel, the centrally located and friendly Hotel II Canale, we set off to explore and almost immediately found ourselves walking underneath the famed porticos, that define this city. There is nowhere else on earth that has as many of these extravagant porches as Bologna, they were built to extend living spaces, in part because of the large number of students attending the university, as well as the increase in people that moved into Bologna from the surrounding countryside. They originally were made of wood, until 1568 when it was announced they were to all be rebuilt in stone and brick, therefore ensuring they are still standing strong today.

We wandered aimlessly through as many of the portico’s that we came across, but there are lots of guided tours available if you want to immerse yourself in the history further. Just make sure you don’t miss the longest one (Portico di San Luca), the tightest one (Portico Via Senza Nome) and the most painted one (Portico Via Zamboni).

Next we ventured inside the Bologna Cathedral,  this grande Baroque style building dedicated to Saint Peter was finished in the 17th century, and features some well preserved fresco’s, a cedar wood crucifix and ‘La Nonna’ an incredibly heavy bell atop the bell tower, which you can climb if you have the stamina (we didn’t“).

As we wandered towards the unmistakable two towers of Bologna, we spotted an inviting cafe and went in for lunch and had the most delicious coffee, we had truly arrived.

Only one of the towers is opened to the public, and you needed to book in advance, so we had to skip that, plus at almost 500 steps to climb to reach the top, it wasn’t something either of us fancied straight after lunch. But, we had fun peering into more shop windows, watching chefs preparing pasta for the oncoming evening and explored more Porticos, finding a rare wooden one on Via Marsala.

After a peek inside the Basilica of San Domenico to view some of the artwork inside, including an early Michelangelo, on mum’s insistence we had to visit the university.

I admit, visiting a cities university isn’t top of my list when I’m on my travels, with the exception of that time I visited Princeton, but it is a must when visiting Bologna. The University of Bologna, or UNIBO is the oldest university in continuous use in the world, incredibly it is said to have opened its ancient doors in 1088, although didn’t grow large enough to technically become a bone-fide university until about 100 years later, regardless that still makes it 850 years old!

The highlight of any visit will be to see the beautiful and huge library, full of shiny wooden bookcases carefully labelled and organised into subjects such as zoology and astronomy, and any spare space of wall was covered with elaborate coats of arms of the previous instructors who have taught over the years.

Everywhere you turned there was something to investigate, another gem was the anatomical theatre, once used for medical lectures, its wooden walls adorned with famous physicians of the time, such as Hippocrates.

When we visited mum and I just turned up and were able to enter the buildings without a booking, but while researching for this blog post, it appears the situation may be currently different, possibly due to Covid, in that you had to book a slot or a guided tour prior to arrival. This is the link for the most up to date information should you fancy it.

One thing that you may not associate so much with Bologna is the canal system. Mainly hidden from view if you are just staying within the confines of the city centre, the Canal Navile provided an important job transporting goods too and from Bologna Port, from Medieval times up until the port was dismantled in 1934. But there is a place where you can spot this piece of history, and that is at Finestrella where you can open a small window situated on the Via Piella and look down on the Moline canal gently flowing beneath you. If you walk one block east to Via Giovanni Brugnoli, you get an even better view as you peer through the love-locked gate and see the canal continuing to flow, nestled between the striking orange buildings on its way to the Adriatic.

For dinner, we were spoilt for choice, each window invitingly advertising their speciality, of course in Bologna the most famous dish is ragù alla bolognese and I think that’s what mum had, but I went for a delicious veggie pasta dish and we shared a gluttonous dessert.

To work off some of the calories of our delicious dinner, we took another walk through more porticos, and soaked up the atmosphere around Piazza Maggiore, the square lit up all around the perimeter with musicians playing and cafe’s bustling.  Then it was a short walk across the Piazza Netunno to see the Fountain of Neptune all aglow and less crowded than earlier in the day, the statue casting a powerful shadow on the wall behind him.

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The next morning, we started our day with an espresso, it would have been rude not too, then we checked out of our hotel, took a last walk around the main square, and headed to the train station.

Along the way we passed a curious looking ruin, which turned out to be one of the original gates to the city, leaving me thinking there was definitely a lot more to explore here, as well as more pasta to eat, and as we boarded our train to Rimini, I made a mental note to return someday.

EATS – We were only in town to enjoy one evening meal and randomly picked Osteria della Orsa. But the town is famous for its stuffed pasta dishes such as Tortellini, its sausages, cheeses and hams as well as the renowned Ragu Bolognese, meaning you are overwhelmed with choice on where to eat. If we had more time, we would have explored some of the food markets, always a great way to eat well and on a budget.

COFFEE AND CAKE – Again, it was such a whistle stop tour, I didn’t have time to sample nowhere near as much as I wanted, but I had an incredible coffee and cake at Pappare  and they had lots of delicious plant based dishes too, I suspect I would have gone again if we’d had time. Speaking of next time, I’d love to visit Stefino in the Bolognina district to sample some of their vegan ice cream!

TOP TIP – Bologna has a superb location in Northern Italy and coupled with a great train network, you can easily travel to Milan, Modena, Palma, Florence all within 90 mins. We took the train south to Rimini taking 1hr 25 mins and costing just under €10.

ALWAYS BE POLITE – Ciao – Hello, Per Favore – Please, Grazie – Thanks

 

 

Sarandë and Butrint, adventures on the Albanian coastline 🇦🇱

Lured by photos of beautiful beaches, UNESCO world heritage sites and inexpensive restaurants serving incredible food, it wasn’t long before I had planned a trip to this lesser visited south eastern European country back in 2018.

With no direct flights from NW England where I live I needed to do some research, and found direct flights to Corfu, Greece, which is so close to this diverse country that you can pick up an Albania phone signal in various spots on the island. There are multiple daily sailings from Corfu Port to the Albanian town of Sarandë, varying from a 30 min fast ferry to a more leisurely 1hr 30 minute crossing. Direct Ferries is probably the best website to find the most accurate information and for less than £40 for a return foot passenger fare, it was too good to turn down.

With a hotel booked overlooking the sea, it was only a 10 minute walk from Sarandë Port once mum and I arrived, after a quick uneventful check at passport control. Accosted by a few eager taxi drivers standing outside the port exit, we knew we didn’t have far to walk, and with our directions already saved in our phone, it wasn’t long before we had checked into our accommodation at the Hotel Pini and we were drinking in the views of a new country and its gorgeous coast line.

Keen to get exploring, we headed for a walk along the seafront, visiting the many little market stalls lining the promenade. Albania has a rich history of craftwork, such as leather, wool and jewellery, and with its ideal coastal location and warm climate has an abundance of olives, garlic, figs, nuts, lavender, herbs, the list goes on.

The smells and sights of all the incredible fresh food on offer gave us an appetite, so we got some of the currency LEKE from an ATM machine, found a lovely beach side cafe and stopped for some coffee and cake.

We then spent the rest of the day exploring the seafront, finding little coves and monuments, road side shrines, petted the local dogs of which there were many and had some good old fashioned chill time on the beach.

After watching the sunset across the Adriatic, we headed back out along the promenade and had a delicious dinner at Rustico, which had local wine and a pretty decent selection of vegetarian meal options too. As it was mid September when we visited, the Mediterranean climate didn’t disappoint and so we ended the night sat out on our adjacent balconies with a book and another small wine.

The next morning, after a delicious strong coffee overlooking the seafront, we headed back in the direction of the port, locating the bus stop by the large roundabout with a big tree in the middle. We were off to Butrint, and although you could get a taxi, the bus takes about 45 minutes and costs about 68p, so we just had time to grab a pastry in a nearby shop, and we were off down the coast.

Butrint is situated on a peninsula about 11 miles south of Sarandë, it’s an ancient port, an historic Roman city, and designated UNESCO world heritage national park. In other words, it’s a popular cultural destination with many good reasons to put it on your itinerary. Although we were there towards the end of the summer season, it wasn’t massively busy, probably because like Albania itself, it’s still a lesser discovered holiday destination.

There is so much to see, once we arrived we got a map from the visitors centre and set off to explore, taking shade when we could among the trees. Wandering around the ancient city ruins, you quickly become aware of how huge this once bustling port must have been. Some ruins date back as far as the 8th Century BC in the area around the Acropolis, with the more recent Venetian tower and castle being built between the 14th to 16th century, and so much more in between. The mosaic floor of the baptistery and the large basilica as well as the Roman theatre were definitely highlights.

Because of it’s location stuck out on a small peninsula, surrounded almost on all sides by water, the wetlands have been given special international recognition. With over 800 plants to be found here, including some rare and endangered, along with 246 species of birds and 105 types of fish, as well as exploring the ruins, experiencing the National Park for its natural beauty is another joy of the area, the views all around were outstanding.

It was then time to head back to Sarandë for a late lunch and crepe sandwich in a seafront cafe and then a chill out on our balcony in the shade. It’s just nice to stop and rest sometimes, something I am guilty of not always making time to do.

Once the main heat of the day had past, we ventured back out to see the remaining sites in the town, stopping to chat with the local cats and dogs, of which there were many friendly faces. Interesting spots we found were a military war bunker and the ancient remains of a synagogue just a couple of roads back from the seafront.

That evening we took another lovely leisurely walk along the prom and then settled on Gerthela for dinner near our hotel, finding room for a final sugary, sweet Albanian pastry for dessert, delicious!

We could have spent another day really in this lovely coastal town, there were a few things that were just on the outskirts, too far to walk, and would have needed a taxi or further investigation of local bus routes to get there, like the Monastery of 40 Saints and the Blue Eye Spring. But something tells me that although the following morning, we took the ferry back to Greece, I wasn’t done with Albania yet, someday I hope to return, what a magical country.

EATS – Being a coastal resort, there are lots of sea front restaurants, that you will be spoilt for choice, lots of places specialise in seafood, a lot with Greek and Italian influences too we found. I loved Rustico Taverna from our first night, as there were some good vegetarian options and located a couple of streets back from the seafront and with upstairs seating you have a great viewpoint of the action below.

COFFEE AND CAKE – There weren’t many if any options for none-diary milk, at least at the time of my visit in 2018, so I made do with strong black coffee, which did the trick. As for pastries, there are loads of little bakeries ‘furrë buke’ all selling both sweet and savoury local delicacies and for only a few pence, we visited quite a few during our short stay and none disappointed.

TOP TIP – If you are just visiting for the day, you can pay for things with Euro’s, although you will get a better rate if you use the local currency. There are ATM’s everywhere, so you wont have any trouble getting Lek on arrival.

ALWAYS BE POLITE – Përshëndetje – Hello!, Faleminderit – Thank You, Mirupafshim – Bye.