UB, Part Two, my Mongolian Adventure

My 2nd full day in the Mongolian capital was the start of my 2 week tour with the travel company Gadventures. I had met a few of my fellow travellers the previous night and had decided to join a women from California at an early morning Yoga class she had located at the nearby Shangri-La Hotel. It was such a unique experience taking a class that was entirely in Mongolian, of course I only knew the most basic of phrases, so myself and companion had to keep one eye on our instructor the whole time, but I think we made for an interesting spectacle for the regulars.

A4DDEB8B-4AA3-4B6F-8F0B-1561A7D1E758

Feeling all zen, wearing our new Mongolian School of Yoga t-shirts, we arrived back to our hotel in time for breakfast. Although day 1 was free for us to explore, the majority of us who had arrived the previous day, had wandered around the main sights and museums in the centre of the city, so our tour guide, the inimitable Uggy arranged a bus and driver and took us to some of the slightly less accessible sights around the capital.

First up was the Winter Palace of Bogd Khan, no longer a working palace, it’s now a large museum complex, full of temples, art, and a whole array of Bogd Khan’s possessions from the time he was the ruler of Mongolia. It was a great introduction to the history of the country, learning about the religious art, temple etiquette and how many temples and monasteries got destroyed during the countries Communist years, this one survived due to the fact it had become a museum. Also, I have limited photos from the museum complex as many temples charge extra to take photos and I hadn’t quite worked out the exchange rate at this early stage in my trip and what seemed like an expensive extra, was probably only a couple of pounds now I look back on it.

5B048D96-8ECC-4F2F-8AAF-28430C3A55AE_1_201_a

Next, we were driven to the Gandan Monastery, otherwise known by its Sunday name of the Temple of Boddhisattva Avalokiteshvara at Gandantegchinlen Monastery, phew! This monastery also managed to avoid being destroyed during Communist rule, and now has 150 monks in residence, making it one of the most important monasteries in the country. There is a lot to explore here, beautiful courtyard grounds, some stunning temples, the Dalai Lama has even stayed here, but the main attraction is Migjid Janraisig Süm, housed inside the largest building in the complex, its a stunning copper and gold statue, with its hollow interior stuffed with medicinal herbs, pretty incredible!

Our next stop wasn’t something I had read about before, located in the southern part of the capital, was Zaisan Hill. Once you have climbed the 100 steps to the top, you are greeted with a memorial remembering both the Mongolians and Russians who were killed during WW2, as well as a curved painting featuring scenes of the friendship between the two countries.  The painting was fascinating, its Soviet style a complete contrast from the previous art we had seen at the temples and monasteries and gave a real reminder of its communist history.

The views from the hill are incredible too, you get a sense of the layout of the city, how it’s growing and changing. Down below you can spot the Tuul River, new apartment blocks and shopping malls being developed, and it may be hard to notice at first, but once you do, the size is hard to take in, but behind the modern buildings is the infamous Ger District. More than half of UB’s residents still live in the traditional dwellings, with no access to water, sewage systems or central heating, it’s one of the reasons pollution is such an issue here. During the long cold winter months, the air is thick with smoke from the many fires lit to provide both heat for cooking and warmth, so much so that planes struggle to land, and a new airport is being built a lot further out of the city away from the smoky skyline.

We then returned to our hotel, via a stop at a large bank with multiple ATM’s, so we could all stock up on currency. We had a few hours to kill, so a few of us got food and caffeine at Tom Tom’s coffee shop to fuel us up, before heading to a local cultural show for the evening. Featuring traditional dancers, contortionists and the whole reason for coming (for me at least anyway) was to hear the spine tingling, amazing throat singers!

After a good nights sleep, all our bags were packed between three 4×4’s and we met our designated drivers for the next 2 weeks. With a pit stop at a large supermarket to get last minute provisions such as coffee, chocolate and other sugary treats for the journey, we took a last glance at this wild, windy, chaotic capital city before we headed south to the Gobi, our adventure was just beginning to get started.

 

 

 

Mongolian Adventure – Part 1 – UB life.

Top of my bucket list for 30 years, maybe before I even really knew what a bucket list was, was Mongolia. Why? Well, I remember seeing a travel programme in my teens, I think it was a Michael Palin one, and the desert, the gers, the camels, the smiling singing faces, I never forgot it. As I grew up and my interest in travel increased, I always connected with any documentary or book on this far away country of just over 3 million people, landlocked inside China and Russia.

For many years it was just a dream, too far away and too remote to see in a week, it would take planning and a longer than usual break from work, not to mention the expense. With limited public transport and vast swathes of desert and countryside to navigate, it’s a brave (or stupid person) who would try and navigate the roads and tracks without a local guide or expert driver. But in 2019 all the stars had aligned, I had booked myself on a tour, got my flight booked via Beijing, and with the visa in my passport, I was off on one of my greatest adventures to date.

I arrived a bit overwhelmed, I was finally here! Plus, the time difference and the fact that my luggage was still in Beijing didn’t help. So after finally getting advice and translation from a man in the American peace corps, I was reassured that if I returned the next morning, my bag should have arrived on the first flight in from China. There was nothing else to do, but get to my hotel in the centre of the capital, and go and explore.

It was early evening once I was ready, so I made it to enormous Sükhbaatar Square, in the heart of the capital, decorated with large statues erected in honour of many notable Mongolians, with the most famous and largest statue of all being the founder of the country, Genghis Khan. With benches all around, I just sat and took it all in, not quite believing I had made it, it was then I realised I had to get some money and sprung up to find an ATM. Although the Mongolian currency the Tögrög, isn’t a closed currency, most banks around the world don’t stock it, so it’s highly unlike you will be able to get your hands on some prior to your arrival. The capital is full of banks and ATM’s, both on the street and inside shops, it took me 3 goes, but I finally found one that recognised my UK card and dispensed some cash, there are also lots of currency exchanges too, so you could just bring your own money from home, if you don’t want to rely solely on your bank card. Feeling tired but with money in my pocket, I bought the most vegetable based snack I could find, well it was green coloured, and slowly meandered the streets, mentally making notes of places to visit the following day, before returning to my hotel and collapsing into a deep jet-lagged sleep.

The next morning, I pretty much jumped in a taxi and headed straight back to the airport to collect my newly landed rucksack, and then only getting slightly ripped off by a taxi man, returned back to the city centre. With a couple of hours before my hotel check out, I had enough time to change my clothes and head out to find some breakfast as I suddenly realised how hungry I was. I needed something hearty and vegan if possible and a quick internet search took me to Millies Espresso for black coffee and some stodgy carbs, perfect to keep me going for the rest of the day. Then I returned to collect my bags and dropped them off at the hotel that was to be the start of my Gadventures tour that evening.

The official start of the guided tour was the following morning, but we were to have a meet & greet that evening, so I pretty much had the full day to hit the main sights of the capital and do a few museums that I knew weren’t covered in the itinerary.  Ulaanbaatar is a fast growing city, with old and new merging as more people move away from the nomadic ger dwelling life, for city living instead. You have the Sükhbaatar Square with its proud statues of its past, but with new skyscrapers towering down above it, you can visit temples and a monastery, alongside shopping malls and hipster coffee shops, as well as watch a performance of traditional throat singing, or experience the laid back sounds of the UB Jazz club. It can be quite chaotic, noisy, overwhelming and frustrating, and sometimes all at the same time, but that in itself it’s part of its charm.

I already had the itinerary of where day 1 of my tour was visiting in the capital, so I decided to visit the main places not featured, as well as just some general wanderings to get a feel of the city, before we escaped out to the countryside. I stumbled upon some cool street art that I had to get a selfie with, to remind myself that it wasn’t a dream, but I had absolutely made it after all these years.

I then found myself across the street from the National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Mongolia, instantly recognised due to the pink neoclassical building and white pillars, as well as another UlaanBaatar sign to get a photo with of course.

From here, it was only a short walk to the Choijin Lama Temple, its no longer a working temple, so you are free to explore the whole grounds inside and out, which includes 5 temples, statues, a stupa and traditional thangka paintings, it was a lovely tranquil place, to take a little respite from the busy city centre.

Next up, it was time to hit the National Museum of Mongolia pretty much a must see, even if you aren’t a fan of national museums, I would absolutely recommend this place as a history 101 of the country. You really get a sense of the incredible story of the country and the journey of its people so far & its got a good gift shop too, with inexpensive local crafts and postcards complete with stamps.

Starting to feel a little hungry, I ventured down Peace Avenue to Ulaanbaatar Department Store one of the largest shopping malls in the city, which along with loads of shops, has a number of cafe’s and restaurants inside, so I sat down to rest my feet, hydrate and grabbed a late lunch.

One of the more unusual sites you wouldn’t necessarily associate with Mongolia, is a statue of Liverpool’s finest, The Beatles. It’s only a short walk from the department store to a little square where people used to gather when the country was communist, to listen to music and discuss politics. For someone who has both lived and worked in Liverpool, it was a must see.

CC8BC77F-9D7A-44E3-B330-4118F2956D79

The remainder of the afternoon, I window shopped, explored a few gardens & squares with interesting statues and people watched over coffee, fighting my jet-lag before my evening meeting with my fellow travellers officially started. That evening, not all our group had arrived, heavy winds had delayed some of the flights in from China, so a bunch of us went for dinner and a beer in the hotel, before all getting a decent sleep, excited for the adventure ahead. UB Part Two to follow . . .

8869C4C8-2F2C-4E62-B7BD-B9F1CCA9D9B8