Coffee, Kombucha and Dairy Free Ice Cream – LA Style

A slight change for this post, writing up my last visit to LA I was conscious it could have turned into a War and Peace type epic if I had included all the places I have enjoyed eating and drinking over the years here as well. So this post is just that, a collection of some of the spots that I have enjoyed visiting in Los Angeles for breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee and late night drinks. Cheers!

Mornings – I will start with breakfast and coffee as any good day should start and at the famous and original Los Angeles Farmers Market on 3rd and Fairfax. Originally a large ranch in the late 1800’s, it wasn’t until the 1930’s when the idea of starting a small village for farmers to sell their wares came to fruition and the Farmers Market was born. Open from 9am-9pm (different on weekends) you could easily visit for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but I think its a nice way start to the day before the tour buses arrive. As well as food stalls there are also vendors selling clothes, candles, flowers and even a dog bakery. With over 30 different places to buy fresh food, coffee and alcohol, its worth doing a full tour of the place before deciding where to eat, last time I had French toast and my friend had an Armenian breakfast.

 

Marmalade Cafe is a small chain with about 7 locations in the LA area, open from 9am till late they serve breakfast lunch and dinner, with a decent range of coffee, teas and champagne cocktails. There is one squeezed in between the Farmers Market and the gorgeously designed Grove Shopping Mall should you fancy a sit down between shopping. The Grove is definitely worth a visit if you are close by, as well a great mix of shops and a cinema, there is a real diverse spread of restaurants and bars, although the shops don’t open till around 10am, some of the cafes and restaurants open up at 9am for breakfast and are open till 11pm for late night food and drinks. I haven’t tried Umami Burger yet, but it’s on my list for next time.

Another place with 2 locations in LA that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner is Swingers. I find a lot of breakfast places in the US are really heavy on eggs, but as I don’t eat them this place was perfect, as they had a great selection of egg free vegetarian and vegan options and the coffee was pretty good too.

 Swingers on Beverly Blvd.

The International House of Pancakes or IHOP is maybe not a place you would associate with health conscious LA, although it is a chain that originated in California. Even though I have been visiting the USA for over 20 years, I hadn’t visited any IHOP’s until 2015 when I visited the one on Sunset Blvd. As well as burgers, sandwiches and soups, they serve an extensive mouthwatering list of pancakes, waffles and French toast, if you’re jetlagged, hungover and hungry (I was all three) it definitely ticks all the boxes as a cheeky one off treat.


Heading towards the coast, if you are in and around Santa Monica, you can’t go wrong exploring the length of Third Street Promenade which is full of cafes, coffee shops and restaurants and if you still can’t find something you like, head to the food court at Santa Monica Place grab a protein bowl or breakfast wrap with a smoothie from the Fresh Healthy Cafe and sit outside in the sun.

You are spoilt for choice for great breakfast and coffee places in Venice Beach, and there are many websites out there giving you detailed instructions for finding that perfect latte or cold brew. On my recent visit I enjoyed an almond cappuccino at Espresso Yo Self just by venice boardwalk and an interesting green tea latte and delicious pastry from Cafe Cielo. One final breakfast recommendation is the cafe/restaurant Rose, housed in a gorgeous space with both indoor and outdoor seating, its own bakery, a fresh Californian menu, a coffee bar and cocktail area, I’m definitely returning for dinner next time.

    

Afternoons. Many of the places I have mentioned for breakfast are suitable for lunches too, but one particular gem I found last month was Lemonade. Focussing on fresh Californian seasonal ingredients, you create your own mixtures of salads, and there is a great choice of meat, vegetarian and vegan options and not surprisingly, delicious thirst quenching lemonades.  We visited the one in West Hollywood, but more and more are popping up around LA, including one in Venice and one in Santa Monica, I remember the kale and tangerine salad being majorly tasty.


If you’re heading up towards Warner Studios for a tour, it will be hard to miss Bobs Big Burger the quintessential 1950’s coffee shop/diner. We stopped here for lunch before heading to the taping of a show one year, I ate meat a lot more back then, so had the big boy burger, but nowadays the menu is more vegetarian friendly I’m pleased to report.

This last visit to LA, we made a wonderful discovery of the organic natural supermarket Erewhon, I could have easily spent a good hour wandering the aisles of the stores of which there are 3, one on Beverly Blvd, one in Venice and one up in Calabases. Full of freshly made salads, sushi and sandwiches to go, a juice and coffee bar, fridges filled with the latest in kombucha and activated charcoal lemonade (yes I tried one!) protein bars and even shots of clay (had one of those too). We visited a few times last month to stock up on cold drinks and made picnics to take to the beach and the hills.

  

My last lunch recommendation is basically anywhere with outdoor seating that doesn’t completely break the bank in Bel Air or Beverly Hills, the people watching will be amazing. My friend and I still talk about our lunch that we had a Momed two years later where we sat right by the pavement, with paparazzi and celebs walk past and overhearing film deals taking place. The food was pretty good too, but it was all about our location and the stories we came away with.

 

Dairy free – Ice Cream. As I don’t tolerate dairy very well, enjoying ice cream is few and far between nowadays when travelling, but dairy free ice cream is pretty easy to come by in LA, so here are two epic recommendations.

Little Damage Located in downtown, we took a trip here specifically to try the ice cream which is made daily with local ingredients. They always have one vegan flavour and are served in the most delicious chewy black charcoal cone. Well worth a visit!
  Little Damage
Kippys Ice Cream Is a 100% none dairy ice cream parlour in Venice Beach, all ice creams are made with 5 organic ingredients or less, and come with a range of toppings such as bee pollen, cacao nibs or goji berries. Open till 11pm, it made a great post taco tre  Kippys None Dairy Ice Cream Parlour

Evenings. I always enjoy a night out on Sunset Blvd, so many bars, cafes, hotels and restaurants, I think the best approach is see where the winds takes you, thats always how we end up finding somewhere. If there is such a thing as an iconic burger bar, then In-n-out must qualify, its good to remember that they stay open till 1am on Sunset, which was around the time when we visited whilst waiting for our uber at then end of a boozy night out. During another visit to the strip, we found ourselves in the Pink Taco, great music and friendly vibe with a menu chocked full of tacos, enchiladas, and a daily happy hour featuring frozen margaritas! Last month, my friend and I just fancied some beers and a few small plates and ended up in The Den on Sunset the food was to die for, especially the cauliflower wings and with a happy hour and fire pit in the outdoor courtyard, it ticked all the boxes.

 Spicy Cauliflower wings on Sunset.

If you fancy a meal out along Hollywood Blvd, then you can’t go wrong creating your own burger at 25 degrees, situated inside the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, I visited it about 10 years ago and I’m pleased to see its still going strong, looking at the updated menu, I may need to return when I’m next over for sure.

Over in Santa Monica I’d be surprised if you couldn’t find somewhere nice to eat along Third Street Promenade or along Ocean Ave. There are many places covering all budgets, from small Italian cafes, English pubs, Thai, Mexican, Mediterranean and fresh local American restaurants. If you fancy viewing it from above, take the lift up to the Cheesecake Factory in Santa Monica place and get a seat on the terrace, as well as ginormous cheesecakes, they serve cocktails and small plates, I’d recommend the Korean fried cauliflower with a glass of prosecco!

Down the shoreline in Venice you have a whole range of options along the boardwalk, some touristy and loud, but not all and despite the beach front location, they aren’t all overpriced either, so it’s worth a wander. Last time we chose Venice Beach Bar and sat upstairs overlooking the beach, watching the glorious sunset, listening to the drum circle, while drinking cold beers and sharing a platter of kale and sweet potato tacos.

Late Night. If you fancy visiting the newest and hippest bars in town, then don’t use this blog as a reference lol, use Time Out LA instead, I’m just all about casual, friendly inexpensive places that serve local beers and play decent music. The Rainbow Bar and Grill has become a bit of a tradition when on a night out on the Sunset Strip even though I’m not particularly into rock music, I’m more of an indie girl (Women? Now I’m 42).  There’s no denying its historic past, a who’s who of rock and movie stars have drunk here since the early 70’s some pretty much living here, and you can’t help but feel the past tales of debauchary seeping from the walls. You can sit outside by the iconic strip, or head inside and pick a booth and since Lemmy past away, there is now a dedicated Lemmy Lounge with a statue of the great man himself, which is fast before a tourist spot in its own right, I can’t wait to return again, a brilliant night out is always guaranteed.

  
Saddle Ranch Chop House describes itself as a ‘destination restaurant’ which I think means as well as serving food and drink, due to its loud music, outdoor fire pits, big screen tv’s, huge bar and oh yeah a mechanical bull which you can ride, diners end up having a great night out in and of itself here. I haven’t eaten here or ridden the bull (honest!) but have grabbed a booth with the idea of staying for one drink and ended up staying a lot longer. One last place we found last time on the Strip was a restaurant/bar called The Everleigh, we saw a gorgeous outdoor courtyard all lit up, looking a little fancier than the places we usually visit, but it still gave off a welcoming vibe, so we ventured in and spent a good hour putting the world to rights with the friendly bartender, whilst sampling the Rose wine at the bar.

Although I have stayed in downtown LA on previous trips, I haven’t really many recommendations for bars in this area, as I think we tended to gravitate towards Hollywood and the coast. One place we did visit though, was the Standard Rooftop, which had entered my radar after I had stayed at the Standard on Sunset. Its Downtown relative is famous for its bar not surprisingly on the roof of the hotel, with insane views across the downtown skyline, a pool, waterbed pods, a dance floor and fireplace. Definitely a place to dress up for, and be prepared to spend some time and money queuing with the beautiful people at the bar, but it was fun for a one off.

  Waterpods and Milkshakes.

A great way to finish the night is to head to the iconic Mels Drive-in, there are 7 locations around the city, but the one on Sunset is open 24/7. Of course you can go for breakfast or lunch, and it’s great during the day, but I love the atmosphere in the early hours, when everyone is slightly drunk, ordering sliders and milkshakes whilst deciding whether to call an uber home or to carry on to another bar.

Finally, if British pubs are more your thing, there are a few gems in LA. I wouldn’t normally visit anything remotely modelling themselves as a British pub when abroad, but these three – The Cat and the FiddleThe Pig & Whistle and Ye Olde Kings Head have real character with unique back stories and have firmly planted themselves in the history books of this city.

Before you go – Tipping is an essential but potentially confusing component for anyone visiting the US. I believe it’s acceptable to pay $1-2 in a bar for wine or beer, increasing if you’ve ordered a fancy cocktail that’s taken time to prepare. In a cafe or restaurant it’s between 15-20% of the bill, so if you spent $20 you would tip an extra $3-4.

My love affair with LA

State No 5

My favourite place on the globe is Los Angeles, my first ever visit was around 15 years ago, and I have just landed back from my 5th trip last month, so its now officially my most visited city outside of the UK. I know a lot of people who pass through, maybe having a day or two as part of a layover on the way to Hawaii or New Zealand and hate it, the noise, the traffic, the fact that actual downtown Hollywood isn’t glamourous at all, but I absolutely adore it and its much more complex and fascinating than just a few busy tourist streets with stars on the pavement and a sign up in the hills. 

There must be a million blogs out there featuring this the City of Angels, and with the actual county of Los Angeles covering 88 cities, there is no way that I could ever begin to cover in a single blog post a comprehensive list of what to see and do when visiting this part of Southern California. So I am just going to write up my favourite places to visit, with my must do list already growing, and my 6th visit already mapped out in my head. But with beaches, hills, museums and art galleries, flea and farmers markets, high end boutiques and dive bars and juice bars and nature trails and biking trails the list goes on and on, I cant believe anyone could not find something to love. 

History Bit.  Originally this part of California was inhabited by 4 coastal groups of Native Americans, the Tongva, the Tataviam, the Chumash and the Ajachemem, then in the late 1700’s the history books report that Mexican and Spanish missionaries arrived and started to set up the first community that is now close to Olvera Street in Downtown LA. Of course Los Angeles is much more than its most famous area, Hollywood, but it is a huge reason for its fame and the draw for people of all walks of life. The movie industry started to move here in the early 1900’s due to its great climate and close access to all kinds of perfect movie settings such as the desert, the hills, rivers, beaches as well as the urban areas and for me that is the big reason I keep returning, the diversity in both the people and the landscape. 

   
Arrivals. I have flown direct to the main airport LAX a couple of times and if you’re flying in from the UK, you have a number of airlines from both London and Manchester taking around 10 hours. If you don’t mind changing along the way, you will be able to fly from any other airport in the U.K. for example you could go Cardiff via Amsterdam or Liverpool via Dublin. I have also driven in from San Francisco along the famous coastal route 1, this can take around 8 hrs none stop, but the route is so beautiful, so we took a couple of days to enjoy it. Amtrak trains also travel in from across the country, finishing up at Union Station as do the greyhound buses, and I once travelled in from Yosemite, via train and bus. 

The public transport is still being developed in many parts of LA and due to heavy traffic, taking the bus can be a real adventure, but it is doable, the metro covers an extensive area of LA, but not to a lot of the tourist areas as yet. If you are on a budget, as I always am, an inexpensive way of getting to your accommodation on arrival from LAX is by Fly Away bus which costs $8 to Hollywood or you could order one of the shared shuttle buses such as Prime Time or Super Shuttle for around $15-20 depending on where you want to go. Driving is often said to be an essential when being in LA, but with taxis, Lyft’s and Uber’s it’s becoming easier to get around without having to hire a car if you’re only here for a short holiday, and not planning to go out of the city.

Sights. Hollywood is no doubt on most tourists hit lists when visiting for the first time, and it’s definitely a fun experience. The main sights are based around the famous Hollywood Boulevard and it’s here where you can find your favourite star on the walk of fame, visit the famous TCL Chinese Theatre where many film premiers take place, there is the Disney owned El Capitan Theatre across the street and the Dolby theatre where the Oscars are held. There are a whole bunch of museums situated here as well, including the Wax Museum, Madame Tussauds, the Hollywood Museum, Guinness Book of Records Museum and a Ripleys Believe it or Not. The Hollywood and Highland shopping mall is located, not surprisingly on the corner of Hollywood Blvd and N Highland Avenue, where you can shop, catch a movie and grab a bite to eat, and look out for a view of the Hollywood sign from up top. It’s also here on Hollywood Blvd where you can join one of the many stars homes tours and grab a photo with one of the  many characters dressed up as famous faces patrolling the pavements! 

  

Make sure you get yourself up to the Hollywood Hills too, which is actually part of the Santa Monica mountains, the views are iconic, and you can either grab a map and drive up yourself, one of the many tour buses will always include it as part of their itinerary, or you can take the Dash Observatory Bus (from Sunset and Vermont) up to Griffith Park. I’ve done all three over the years, how you decide to do it depends on your time and budget. You cannot drive straight up to the actual Hollywood Sign, but there are many vantage points for that perfect photo op, depending on how you are travelling up there, a tour bus will take you to a popular photo spot, but a quick internet search will throw up lots of self drive suggestions. 

 

Griffith Park is a great day out and perfect for when you want to get out into nature, pack a picnic and leave the traffic and city behind. The views are amazing looking down across the skyline and you are spoiled for choice for things to do, there are lots of hiking trails, a museum, a zoo,  mini railroad, caves, and of course the world famous Griffith Observatory. The observatory was closed for renovation during my first 3 trips to LA, but I finally visitied last month (Oct 2017) and it was worth the wait. The views up here for one are mesmerising, hazy downtown skyscrapers and dusty mountains, rare butterflies, birds and maybe even the odd coyote, but a visit to the observatory itself is full of a different discovery. Entry is free and you get 3 levels of space, and astronomy to explore, including the jaw droppingly exciting Tesla Coil which had multiple live demonstrations daily. The only time you need to pay is if you fancy watching one of the shows in the dome shaped planetarium, between $3-7 a ticket it’s well worth it, we experienced the Water is Life show and there are repeated showings throughout the day. As the observatory is open till late for night time viewings and monthly star parties, it doesn’t open until 12.00 daily, so we took a picnic and hiked one of the trails first before it got too hot, and then headed inside, it was a perfect day out.

 

Downtown LA This is the central business area of LA and the place responsible for that famous cluster of skyscrapers seen so often on TV and in films. It’s definitely rough around the edges, and there are certain areas I wouldn’t recommend walking around, but stick to the main streets and use taxis in the evening and you should be fine. There are some great reasons as to why it would be worth a visit to this part of town in the daytime though and some superb bars and restaurants too that would make for an unforgettable night out. My first ever visit to LA was to catch up with a Mexican friend, and he took me to Olvera Street  and the El Pueblo Historical Monument which is where the first Mexican settlers set up encampment, so it’s basically the birthplace of Los Angeles. Olvera street is an amazing tree lined Mexican Marketplace that hits all the senses, here you can buy all kinds of crafts, clothes and food, as well as the host of many festivals, you can take a free walking tour and visit some of the oldest buildings in the city. History, tacos and music, something for everyone! 

Union Station deserves a look in if you’re in the area, built in 1939 it’s the largest passenger terminal in Western US, a combination of Spanish Colonial and Art Deco the interior is outstanding. Even if you aren’t travelling on to somewhere else, it’s across from Olvera Street and has a couple of bars and a restaurant inside, so it could easily fit into someone’s downtown itinerary. 

  

Downtown is also where you can find Little Tokyo and Chinatown both fun neighbourhoods for great food, temples, museums and shops, I once stayed in Little Tokyo for a few days, before relocating to the beach. For the few days we were there, we would would grab breakfast or lunch at some cute little Japanese place and shop or visit temples before heading off to see more of the well known sites. My final recommendation for downtown is a great bookshop if losing yourself in books and comfy chairs is your idea of heaven, located on South Spring St is The Last Book Store a huge 2 floor loft space full of books of every description and is laid out like a living breathing art gallery of books, magical!

    

Beverly Hills. A city to the west of Hollywood with one of the most famous postcodes in the world 90210, it’s an experience to drive through, people watch and window shop for sure. You will see lots of familiar sights from tv, music and film, ultra expensive blacked out cars, paparazzi and shops that you need an appointment or A list status to enter. All the LA tour buses will drive you down Rodeo Drive and the surrounding area, past restaurants like The Ivy or the Beverly Hills Hotel, all places that are far too expensive for us mortals to shop, sleep or dine in, but exciting to see nonetheless. Close by are places such as The Grove, the Beverly Centre and my favourite The Farmers Market which are all far more accessible the average visitor, so I’d recommend people watching, walking a couple of blocks past all the fancy stores, but then head to shop and eat in one of the neighbouring malls instead, for a more thrifty way of experiencing Beverly Hills.

  

Every visit I have made to LA, I have never stayed in the same place for the entire trip, I spend time staying in the heart of Hollywood and then head across to the coast. This is partly because I usually never hire a car, so it saves on travelling (it can take 30-40+ minutes to get across town on a good day and you are looking at an hour+ on public transport) but I also like to have a few days exploring the shops, bars, museums in and around Hollywood, and then head to the coast as its a completely different vibe, and mindset.

Santa Monica is a city in itself, situated on the Pacific coastline, its a very walkable and bike friendly place, full of juice bars, shopping malls, cinemas, restaurants, spas, yoga studios, theatres and coffee shops. With palm trees spanning the famous Ocean Drive that you will have seen thousands of times before in the movies and of course the celebrated Santa Monica Pier, it feels a world away from the neon filled, billboard lined busy streets of West Hollywood. As well as exploring the famous Pier which has a ferris wheel, aquarium, restaurants, arcades and shops, spend time along Third Street Promenade where you will find more affordable shopping and restaurants than in Beverly Hills for sure and even a British Pub. Bike lanes and rental shops are everywhere, and you can easily travel up and down the coast line on designated bike lanes, south to Venice Beach or north towards Malibu, maybe try some surfing or paddleboard lessons, or if you are me just chill on the beach with a smoothie.

   

Venice Beach. It’s only a 30 minute walk from Santa Monica or a 10 minute car journey, but definately strap in for a completely different scene down here.  It’s the quirkier, eclectic, bohemian neighbour and always worth a visit, the world famous boardwalk is full of unique people, stalls and events. Keep an eye out for The Boardwalk Busker, along with the man who has a huge albino snake wrapped around his neck, mixed in with local musicians and artists showcasing their talents. The beach front is full of restaurants and bars, and its an experience to just sit down and witness all the craziness from behind the safety of a cold beer and some tacos. Make sure to walk as far down as Muscle Beach, to witness the bare chested weighlifters pumping iron in the sun, then head back a few blocks past the famous Jim Morrison mural to the quietly scenic canal area. Take time to wander the entire length of Abbot Kinney and explore Rose Avenue and Main St, which are full of coffee shops, boutique stores, and lots of original and unconventional restaurants and bars.

 


Others sights
– So much more to recommend, head up to Malibu for surfers, more beaches and great restaurants, take in the art and amazing views from the Getty, take a bar crawl at night along Sunset Strip and visit the incredible Universal Studios theme park afterwards watching a film and enjoying a meal at the Universal City Walk and maybe even book a studio tour at Warner Brothers the list goes on. . . .